WANDERLUST:
Text and Photos by Henrylito D. Tacio
If the word “enchanted” can be used to describe a river, then it’s the river located in barangay Talisay of Hinatuan, Surigao del Sur is most likely to be it. In fact, it is commonly known as Enchanted River.
The river with iridescent, crystal-clear blue waters is famous for its tales of mermaids, magical fairies and supernatural spirits. No wonder, the mystical site is considered by the locals as a sacred river.
Encircled by thick jungle, creepers, and various ornamentals, Enchanted River is now one of the premier tourist destinations of the province. No one can deny that the river’s “sapphire blue hues” that “look like solid gemstones glinting in the sun,” to quote the words of travel.earth’s Akansha Ghansiyal, is a sight to behold!
If the outward appearance of the river is worth the visit, how much more for its underground marvels? I never had the opportunity of exploring down under but Ghansiyal has written something on it: “Beneath these crystalline waters, there is a subterranean cave system which was only first tentatively explored in 1999, by a cave diver named Alex Santos.”
More than a decade later, the underground cave was further explored by Dr. Alfonso Amores, along with two others. The three explorers reportedly “discovered numerous underwater chambers (with depth ranging between 30 meters and 40 meters), caverns, fissures, and still more tunnels leading off into unchartered territory.”
No one knows where the water of the 300-meter-long river comes from but it flows into the Philippine Sea.
All this information reminded me of the mysterious Wakulla Springs in Tallahassee, Florida which we visited a couple of years back. Although it was fully searched by American explorers, no one could tell where the water originated.
To enter the place, visitors are required to undergo a lecture first to know what to do and what not to do. After paying the entrance fee, you can ride a provided vehicle or just walk yourself going to the river.
The first thing you get to see is the Olympic-size blue lagoon. Experts claim the river’s dark blue color means the water is very deep. That’s why swimming is allowed only at 10 meters away from the lagoon.
Several professional divers tried to fathom the river but they failed due to strong current and blocked passageways. “Many foreigners attempted to reach the bottom but until today, no one has ever reached it,” Felicisimo Baguasan, a caretaker and lifeguard, told Philippine Daily Inquirer.
The river is home to several fish species, which are fed every three in the afternoon. People who are swimming in the river are asked to get out from the water and assemble near the riverbank. Once the river is free from human beings, “Hymn of Hinatuan” is being played over loudspeakers. “It’s like an ancient ritual,” someone commented.
Out of nowhere, a large school of silver-scaled fish comes out. They assemble at the mouth of the river and are fed by the river’s caretakers with rice, pieces of minced meat, shrimp, octopus and other scraps of food.
This astounding scenario, as if it comes out from a movie, takes about an hour. Once the feeding session is done, the fishes just disappear and people can swim again in the river until 5 pm.
Modesto Farolan, a diplomat, is credited for naming it Enchanted River. He described the river as such in his poem aptly entitled, “Rio Encantado.”
What made the river enchanted was because of the supernatural beings (engkantos) who supposedly live in the area, who act as its protectors. This is the reason why no one is allowed to go into the river after 5 pm as it is the time for those beings to use the place.
Some locals said they saw fairies swimming in the river at night. These fairies allegedly added the colors of sapphire and jade to the river to make its unique shade.
To visit the Enchanted River, take a flight to Butuan or Davao. From Butuan, ride a bus going to Hinatuan; travel time is about 4 hours. Once you are in Hinatuan, take a motorbike or tricycle and tell the driver that you are going to Hinatuan River; travel time is around 20 minutes. – ###
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